Rats can transmit diseases, their excreta can contaminate food and utensils and they can damage buildings by gnawing conduits and wiring.

To check whether rats are around, look for:

•    Droppings (12mm to 18mm long).
•    Signs of fruit and vegetables having been eaten.
•    Greasy rub marks along paths they travel.
•    Burrow holes around buildings.
•    Signs of gnawing damage.
•    Pet dogs, cats, birds, being more excitable than usual.
•    Squeaking, gnawing or movement noises in walls, cupboards and ceilings and under floors.

Rats can be discouraged and controlled by denying them food and shelter. A few simple precautions will prevent or help get rid of them:

•    Store firewood away from the sides of sheds and fences and keep it well clear of the ground.
•    Regularly remove garden waste or other disused materials.
•    Remove fruit and nuts from trees or vines at the end of the season.
•    Block holes and other potential access points around all buildings.
•    Keep pet food dishes clean and store bulk pet food supplies in a manner which denies access to rats.
•    Rubbish bins and compost containers should be well maintained and free from holes.
•    Don’t compost meat scraps.
•    Trim trees away from gutters, patios and pergolas.
•    Encourage neighbours to remove excess rubbish from their property.

Poison baits are the most successful way of destroying rats.

If you believe that you may have a rat problem phone Council’s Environmental Health Section on 9290 6666 for more information.

PORTUGUESE MILLIPEDES

MOSQUITOES

Mosquitoes can quickly breed to nuisance levels whenever climatic conditions are suitable areas common breeding sites include roadside drains, septic tank systems, stagnant pools of water in low lying areas, blocked gutters, pot plants and containers and virtually anywhere else that water pools exist for more than a few days.

Mosquito numbers can vary from year to year with about every second or third year being particularly bad. This can be caused by unusual climatic conditions such as the La Nina effect that can create unusually high tides resulting in semi-permanent pools of water in low lying river areas.

Under normal circumstances these areas would dry out between tides and hence break the mosquito breeding cycle. Also, unusually high rainfall periods, particularly when associated with summer storms and “storm surge”, can create higher than usual water levels and increased breeding.

HOUSEHOLDER CONTROL

Mosquito species which breed around residential properties can be controlled by householders in a number of ways.

1.  Prevent Breeding Around Your House

Mosquitoes require stagnant water to breed.  Identify and remove all stagnant water sources, (e.g., pot plants, cans, bottles, containers, blocked guttering etc.)  Make sure fish ponds  and   swimming pools are not breeding mosquitoes.  Fish ponds should be stocked with mosquito larvae feeding fish e.g. goldfish.  Swimming pools should be properly maintained and have  clean, chlorinated water.

2.  Protect Your Home
     (a)   Place flywire on all doors and windows.
     (b)   Make sure lids are sealed on septic tanks, soakwells and leach drains.
     (c)   Ensure your sewerage vent pipe has a mosquito proof cowl, and if it is metal, that holes have not rusted through. 
            Your vent pipe is usually located outside, adjacent to your bathroom    orlaundry and running up the side of the house and through the roof.
     (d)   Put fly wire around rainwater tank inlets and overflows.
     (e)   Cut back foliage which provides harbourage for mosquitoes.

3.  Personal Protection
     (a)   Avoid exposure at dusk and early evenings.
     (b)   Wear loose fitting, long clothing outdoors.
     (c)   Use a suitable personal insect repellent.

Should you require further information, please contact Health Services on 9290 6666.

BEES

Bees typically swarm in the spring of each year prior to establishing new hives. Swarming is part of the natural reproductive life cycle of honey bee colonies. Colonies are stimulated to swarm during spring when warmer weather, together with an abundance of nectar and pollen, provide ideal conditions for the colony to rapidly increase the bee population. Under these conditions the colony soon becomes overcrowded and is stimulated to reproduce by swarming. The old queen, together with the field bees, leaves the hive and may congregate in trees or shrubs on Council or private property.  The swarm will often remain for a day or two while scout bees search for a new home or it may move to another location.

Should a swarm decide to settle in your property:
•   Keep children and pets inside for half an hour or so, until the flying bees have clustered on to a bush or other object.
•   Once the swarm has formed a cluster, usually about the size of a football, and most of the bees have stopped flying, it is safe to go outside and carry on as normal.
•   However, keep clear of the swarm until you can arrange to have it removed.
•   Always wear footwear to protect your feet.
•   Do not put the hose onto the swarm, throw stones at it, smoke the bees or take similar action. These “do-it-yourself” remedies will aggravate bees, encouraging them to sting in defense.

If you notice a bee swarm or hive on Council property e.g. a public park, right of way, or street verge, that you think may be a public danger, you can contact the Council’s Health Services on 9290 6666. Council will send an officer to assess the situation and if it is considered a danger a professional pest control operator will be sent to remove or destroy the swarm.

It should be kept in mind that swarming is a natural function of honey bees and when swarming the bees are very docile and are not likely to sting provided they are left alone.

EUROPEAN WASPS

The European Wasp is an introduced species that was first detected in Australia in 1959. Since then it has spread to many parts of the country including Perth. The wasp enjoys the warmer Australian conditions and nests can grow to three metres in length and contain hundreds of thousands of wasps.

Because they are attracted to cool drink and meat they are a particular hazard around barbecues and also for pets. If swallowed they can sting repeatedly (unlike a bee that can only sting once) and cause asphyxiation through swelling.

Physical Features
The European Wasp is about the same size and shape as a honey bee but is not hairy. It has distinct bright yellow and black triangle-shaped markings on the body. It is not to be confused with the Papernest wasp that is more slender and has an obvious waste section. The European Wasp has black, long antennae, the wings are folded at rest and when they fly they hold their legs close to their body.

The Nest
The European Wasp’s nest is always concealed. It is usually underground but can be located inside a hollow tree, a space in a retaining wall or embankment, in a wall cavity or the ceiling space of a house. The nest varies in shape depending on its location but can be very large. It consists of layers of cells and the outside is covered with flaky pieces of chewed up and cemented wood fibre.

The Papernest wasp’s nest, in contrast, is usually small (about the diameter of a 50c coin),  fully or partially exposed, honeycombed in appearance and is often found on the underside of eaves or hanging off a branch.

PRECAUTIONS AGAINST THE EUROPEAN WASP
•   Don’t leave food, drink or pet food outside.
•   Pick up fallen fruit.
•   Ensure that your outdoor rubbish bins have tight-fitting lids.
•   Cover compost bins.
•   Cover food during a barbecue or picnic.
•   Don’t drink straight from a can or bottle when outside, drink from a straw.
•   If you see a European Wasp leave it alone – it will only attack if provoked.

NOTE
All suspected wasp sightings must be reported to the Agriculture Protection Board on 93683472. Do not attempt to remove the nest yourself as this can be extremely dangerous. Council’s Health Services can supply more information on the European Wasp or assist with identification of suspected wasps by phoning 9290 6666.